Gold-fill, vermeil and plating: the honest difference

Three labels that look similar and behave completely differently.

Plating

A microscopic layer of gold over brass, often 0.5 micron. It wears through in months on a ring and turns the finger green when the brass underneath reacts. Fine for a trend piece, not for daily wear.

Vermeil

Thick gold (2.5 micron or more) over sterling silver. Legally defined in the US and France. Good for earrings and pendants, still not immortal on a ring.

Gold-fill

A thick layer of gold mechanically bonded to a brass core, at least 5% of the total weight. It does not flake, and it can last years with care. This is what most of our pieces use.

How to read a listing

• “Gold plated” with no micron figure: assume thin.
• “14k gold-fill”: good, if the maker names the ratio.
• “Gold vermeil”: check the micron count, not the carat.

What we use, and why

Gold-fill for chains and hoops, vermeil for rings that need a heavier feel, and solid silver where the design allows. Nothing plated.